The future of active wear is being shaped by the pursuit of shoes that offer superior running performance and exceptional comfort. New designs are delivering lighter, more responsive footwear to help athletes reach their potential. At the same time, as the industry embraces increased sustainable practices, high-performance shoes are crafted not just for speed and comfort, but also with the environment in mind – ensuring that every step benefits both the wearer and the planet.
At the heart of advancements in performance clothing lies with innovations in chemistry and materials science. This enables the creation of new lightweight foams, responsive fabrics and other ‘circular’ materials that can deliver that kick and also address sustainability challenges. As we discuss further below, recent innovations in this area mean that sustainability and performance can both be elevated.
Founded in 2010 by former Ironman champion Olivier Bernhard, and David Allemann and Caspar Coppetti, On Clouds is a Swiss performance sportswear company which designs athletic shoes. Under their motto “ignite the human spirit through movement”, On’s mission is to change the world of running by finding a shoe with the perfect running sensation. The sports brand also aims to ensure that every product is fossil free and fully circular.
On’s breakthrough came via the development of the first running shoe made from captured carbon emissions. Dubbed the CleanCloud, the new foam material is based on the polymer ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA). Instead of being derived directly from fossil fuels, EVA for CleanCloud sources its EVA from industrial waste carbon emissions and converting them into useful products.
Captured carbon emissions, such as carbon monoxide, technology from LanzaTech captures carbon monoxide emitted from industrial sources like steel mills before being released into the atmosphere. Once captured, these emissions enter a fermentation process using specific and naturally occurring bacteria to ferment carbon rich gas into ethanol, a process is similar to that of a conventional beer brewing process. The ethanol is then dehydrated to create ethylene by Technip Energies, which is then polymerized by Borealis to become EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) in a form of solid small plastic pellets. This then goes on to form the versatile and lightweight material that On starts working with to create a performance foam for shoes.
This chemistry-driven breakthrough rounds performance and sustainability into one package.
Imagine a world where you never have to throw away your worn-out running shoes. That’s the promise behind On Clouds’ Cyclon™ subscription model. Instead of buying a new pair and eventually discarding them, customers subscribe to shoes and, when they’ve run their course, simply send them back for a replacement.
But what happens next is where the real innovation lies. Returned shoes are carefully dismantled and their component materials recycled. Textile uppers are recycled fibre-to-fibre, the Speedboards® midsoles are shredded and transformed into new soles, and any remaining parts are repurposed. This system means that valuable materials are kept in use, reducing waste and without needing virgin resources. Indeed, the latest Cloudrise Cyclon™ 1.1 even features Speedboards® made from recycled materials sourced from returned shoes and production offcuts.
At the heart of this business model is a shift towards improved access. Customers help extend the life cycle of materials and brands are encouraged to design with durability, recyclability and minimal environmental impact in mind. It’s a win-win: runners enjoy top-tier shoes without the guilt of wastage, and every returned pair feeds back into a system that continually keeps materials within active use.
On Clouds’ subscription model isn’t just about shoes. It’s about stepping into a more sustainable future, one stride at a time.
Others in this space are also transforming performance clothing by looking into plant-based materials and shifting away from synthetics.
One example is Pangaia who, instead of relying on fossil fuel-based synthetics, have turned to bio-based EVO® nylon made from castor beans. Aside from being a renewable crop, a specific advantage of castor beans is that it uses less water and land than most alternatives. EVO® nylon delivers the durability and comfort athletes expect, but with a much lighter environmental footprint. Pangaia also uses regenTM BIO MAX elastane, a fibre derived from renewable resources and which provides increased stretch and resilience to performance clothing.
Pangaia’s commitment to sustainability doesn’t stop at the fibres at a material level. Their products often feature recycled materials, such as their line of recycled wool jerseys and fleeces. This approach avoids the need for virgin sheep hair and lessens the environmental impact associated with land and water suage, as well as ethical concerns surrounding sheep skinning.
BAM Clothing, based in Yorkshire, has an interesting approach of putting bamboo at the heart of its sustainable activewear designs. Bamboo itself is a very unique plant, and offers desirable attributes for use as a material. It is fast-growing, requires virtually no pesticides, and thrives on rainwater alone. BAM Clothing transforms this renewable resource into bamboo viscose, a fabric prized for its softness and breathability. Particularly useful is its natural moisture-wicking properties, and so such bamboo-based active clothing can be particularly helpful when working up a sweat.
Major global athletic apparel company Under Armour is pioneering sustainable polymer fiber innovation with its NEOLAST™ technology, a stretchable, recyclable alternative to spandex / elastane. Developed in collaboration with specialty polymer manufacturer Celanese, NEOLAST™ is produced using a solvent-free melt-extrusion process and made from recyclable elastoester polymers. This fibre debuted in the Under Armour’s Vanish Pro tee, offering elite moisture wicking, stretch, and durability performance comparable to traditional spandex while being designed for recyclability. This aligns with Under Armour’s goal to reduce spandex use by 75% by 2030, and is consistent with the general industry trend of shifting away from synthetic fabrics which are difficult to recycle.
Under Armour also launched a regenerative sportswear collection with Unless Collective, featuring fully plant-based, biodegradable components such as coconut husk soles, natural rubber latex, Kapok insulation, and corozo buttons. Unveiled during Milan Design Week in 2025, these pieces are intended to compost naturally in backyard or industrial settings, making “good dirt” at their end-of-life.
Chemistry is at the heart of this evolution in the circular approach to performance wear. From castor bean polymers to captured-carbon foams, every piece of innovation is rooted in science-driven design. What is also clear is that performance and planetary care are not at odds. Notable brands in the space prove you can have both: high-functioning activewear derived from natural, recycled feedstocks.
In the playing field of performance clothing, it is no longer just about making great kit alone. It’s also about keeping those materials in play, again and again.
Watch this space for more blogs on further advances in performance clothing.
Nathan is a patent attorney working in our chemistry team. Nathan has a Masters degree in chemistry (MChem) from the University of Oxford. His undergraduate research project focused on the synthesis of zirconium complexes for polymerisation catalysis. During his undergraduate studies at Oxford, Nathan developed an electrochemical method of surface-initiated polymerisation as part of a summer project. He also completed a short internship studying hydrogen thermal batteries at Stanford University in California, USA.
Email: nathan.zhang@mewburn.com
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